Ask an Expert: Costume Design
In the world of figure skating, where grace and athleticism converge, artistry extends beyond the skaters’ routines to the intricate designs of their costumes. We asked you to submit your most burning questions related to costume design, and we had renowned figure skating costume designer, Josiane Lamond of Lamond Signature answer them! Â
Read on to explore the delicate craft of designing costumes that not only dazzle under the rink lights but also enhance the skaters’ performances and reflect their unique personalities.Â
What’s the longest it’s taken you to finish a dress?Â
The longest it has taken me to finish a dress is approximately 72 hours. This usually involves intricate designs, detailed embellishments, and custom fittings to ensure the perfect fit and aesthetic for the athlete.Â
I want to try to make my own dress! Any advice?Â
Absolutely! Start with a simple design and gradually move on to more complex ones as you gain confidence. Pay attention to source quality of materials and invest in good tools. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes – they’re part of the learning process. Also, watching tutorials and seeking feedback can be incredibly helpful. Don’t be like me 0 when I made my first dress at age 13, I cut it from the wrong side of the stretch… When I was done, I couldn’t fit into the dress.Â
What material do you use most often?Â
I most often use stretch fabrics like Lycra, and Spandex, and mesh, as they provide the flexibility and comfort needed for athletic performance.Â
What materials do you prefer to use? And why?Â
I prefer using materials like mesh, chiffon, and Italian tricot for their elegance and for a good result. Chiffon will enhance flow, which enhances the movement of the athlete on the ice. These materials also allow for beautiful draping and detailing.Â
What inspired you?Â
Beauty is everywhere. Nature is inspiring with its colour and shapes. Art is also a good source of inspiration. My inspiration came from my early passion for figure skating. The grace and beauty of the sport motivated me to create costumes that complement and enhance the performance. Fashion and haute couture projects are part of my vision to celebrate elegance and innovation, reflecting both the spirit of competition and the artistic beauty that characterizes figure skating.Â
By combining high-quality materials, elegant cuts, and subtle details, my costumes aim to be a true ode to the beauty of movement and the magic of the ice. They highlight the fluidity and grace of the skaters while captivating the audience’s imagination from the first moments of the competition. Designed to offer comfort and freedom of movement while adding a touch of sophistication, my creations reflect my commitment to showcasing each athlete and honouring the art of figure skating. My passion for the art of couture, and my dedication to creating timeless pieces, drives me to bring this unique and enchanting vision to life.Â
What inspires your costume designs?Â
I draw inspiration from a variety of sources including nature, art, fashion, and the personalities of the athletes themselves. Each costume is a reflection of the athlete’s unique style and the story they want to tell through their performance and music. “Our costumes aren’t just costumes. They’re an extension of you, of your story, of your talent, of your passion, and of your power.”Â
How do you design realistically make-able costumes?Â
I focus on combining aesthetics with practicality. This involves choosing the right materials that allow for movement and comfort, and creating designs that are achievable within the constraints of time and resources. Also, with all the tricks in programs, we have to consider the weight of the costume and how warm it is. Every single detail is important.Â
How do you match mesh to your skin tone?Â
Matching mesh to skin tone requires careful selection and sometimes custom dyeing to ensure it blends seamlessly with the athlete’s skin. You could use a pantone chart (for example) and pick which colour would match the best. It’s important to test samples under different lighting conditions to get the perfect match.Â
How much sparkle is too much sparkle?Â
It’s never too much if it’s well done! There’s no set rule, but it’s important to balance sparkle with the overall design. Too much can overshadow the athlete’s performance, while too little might not catch the light as effectively. The key is to enhance, not overwhelm.Â
How do you get inspired?Â
I find inspiration through observing the world around me, listening to music, traveling the world, and staying updated with fashion trends. Sometimes, a simple walk in nature can spark a new idea.Â
How much time goes into one costume?Â
On average, a costume can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks to complete. The following factors can affect delays: the level of skaters, the number of people involved in the project (e.g., coaches, choreographers, parents, federation, and judges), the complexity of the design, and the level of detail required.Â
What’s the process of designing a costume for a specific piece of music?Â
I start by listening to the music multiple times to understand its mood and the era. Then, I discuss with the athlete to get their vision and feelings about the piece. I also like to know if there is a storyline to the program. This collaboration helps in creating a design that visually represents the music. We do appointments live, or more and more through video conferences.Â
Sometimes, I have the opportunity to discuss with the music composer to understand their inspiration and vision. During the creation process, to concretize my vision, I often go through a mood board phase where I gather images, fabrics, and colours. This helps me to gradually solidify my ideas. By combining these elements, I can create a costume that not only complements the music but also enhances the athlete’s performance, reflecting both the artistic beauty and competitive spirit of figure skating.Â
What is the most time-consuming aspect of costume designing?Â
The most time-consuming aspect is often the handwork involved in detailing, such as beading, embroidery, and applique. These elements require precision and can take a significant amount of time to perfect.Â
What are your favourite, and least favourite, dress colours?Â
My favourite dress colours are usually rich jewel tones like emerald, sapphire, and ruby as they look stunning on the ice. My least favourite are overly muted tones that don’t stand out well under stage lighting or white.Â
For men, it is more and more open to have different costumes, but for men’s skaters, classic colors are still their favourite. So, for men’s skaters, I prefer not to go with fluorescent colors, pink, or light purple.Â
What is your favourite part of making the costumes?Â
My favourite part is seeing the finished costume come to life on the athlete. Watching them perform and knowing that my work has contributed to their confidence and presentation is incredibly rewarding.Â
What did you study in school?Â
I studied fashion design and textile arts, which provided me with a solid foundation in both the technical and creative aspects of costume making.Â
How do you decide what colours match a song?Â
I consider the emotion and story behind the song. For example, a dramatic piece might call for deep, bold colours, while a light, whimsical piece might suit pastel shades. It’s about finding a visual harmony with the music. When the music has a lot of character, you could also play with contrast of color.Â
What’s the biggest challenge you deal with?Â
The biggest challenge is balancing creativity with practicality. Ensuring that the costume is not only beautiful but also functional and comfortable for the athlete can be a complex task. A good design is a design that will enhance the skating and match the skater’s physique and personality.Â